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Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Top makeup artists share their tips for buying and applying Concealer.

Many women forgo wearing concealer, but leading makeup experts say it is probably one of the most important aspects of any beauty regimen.

"The key when you're putting on makeup is to create a flawless look," says Chanel spokesperson Anny Kazanjian. "A beautiful skin tone, a beautiful complexion begins with concealer. It is the number one element."

Jenia O'Connor, senior makeup artist at M.A.C, agrees. "If you think of your face as a canvas, the concealer allows you to make your canvas perfect. Your face becomes a clean slate for you to work on."

The most important tip when choosing a concealer is picking the right shade for your skin. Kazanjian says a good rule of thumb is to go one shade lighter than your own skin. She cautions, however, that you should always have an expert advise you on the right shade because if the colour is inaccurate your face will appear a different colour than your neck. When testing the product, try it right on the area of your face where you will be using it. Also, reassess your needs every few months because your skin tone can fluctuate with the changing of the seasons.

Equally important is choosing the right consistency of product. O'Connor explains that heavier products actually emphasize flaws. "If you've got dry skin, it accentuates the flakiness, so you want to use something that's smooth and has a more runny feel."

The most common use for concealers is hiding under-eye circles. It is also great for covering blemishes, or even freckles.

Kazanjian advises that you begin with cleansed, moisturized skin. The moisturizer will hydrate your skin and allow all your cosmetics to glide on and hold better. She cautions that you should not tug on your eyes when applying any makeup, as this will stretch the skin and can actually create wrinkles. Also, be careful when adding concealer to the folds around the mouth because too much product can cause the makeup to cake and make the folds more noticeable.

Many concealers come with their own applicator wand. If yours does not, apply it with a small, firm brush. O'Connor explains that your hands have oils that could contaminate the product. A brush allows the concealer to perform better and longer. Dab it on, a little at a time, building slowly until you have the coverage that you need. The next step is to add foundation and then powder, to set and hold the products.

O'Connor notes that the need for coverage determines how she uses concealer. In cases where her clients have only minor skin imperfections, she prefers to begin with foundation and then adds concealer only to areas of the face that still need more coverage.

If you have severe problem skin with major blemishes, O'Connor suggests seeking professional advice. You should look for a product with a thicker, more gooey consistency. This will offer fuller coverage, allowing less of your actual skin to come through the makeup. Choose a shade closest to your skin colour and use the concealer all over the face, as a foundation. "Once you've achieved the look of flawless skin, you can just add some lipstick and mascara and you'll look like you're wearing no makeup at all," says Kazanjian. "You'll have a very natural look that everyone wants."



Monday, October 4, 2010

Essential makeup brushes for a flawless face

There are two things that a woman should not skimp on: cotton sheets and quality makeup brushes. The market offers brushes made from the hairs of sable and blue squirrel and from nylon. If you can afford to, invest in several sable brushes. They have shape memory, no matter what you do to them. Be careful with sable brushes, because colour goes exactly where you put it. If you want a sheerer, broad wash of colour, the squirrel brush has a lighter touch.

Brushes are the softest, least harmful way to transfer cosmetics to the face. They are used to line the eyes, fill in the lip line, fluff on the eye shadow and blusher, smudge harsh lines, and for finishing with powder. Small brushes with shorter, stiffer bristles can be used to train the eyebrows, apply mascara, and remove excess.

Eyebrow brush
Use this brush to train your eyebrows by first brushing them upward and then smoothing them back toward the ear.

Powder brush
The largest brush in your collection fluffs finishing powder onto your face, softens foundation, or blends blusher.

Blusher brush
Fluffy blusher brushes cut on an angle fit comfortably over the cheekbone. Brushes in blush compacts are too small and pick up too much colour.

Fantail brushes
I've always loved this brush for easing on just the right amount of blusher, because it fits right over the cheekbone.

Eyeliner brush
Use this narrow, domed brush to line the eyes with eye shadow or to smudge the line laid down by eyeliner pencils. If you're looking for a sharper line, try the Trish McEvoy No. 11 brush. It's 3/8 inches wide and imparts a precise line very close to the base of the lashes. Or try Paula Dorf's tiny nylon brush -- its slight curve follows the lash line on the inner side of the lid.

Eye-shadow brushes
You will probably want two: a one-inch soft, fluffy brush to broadcast a sheer wash of colour over the whole lid; and a small, soft slanted brush to fit comfortably into the crease under the socket bone for applying contour colour.

Spoolie
The spoolie, which looks like a fresh mascara brush with a series of stiff, short bristles arranged horizontally along a central core, is used to remove excess mascara.

Lipstick brush
If you like to line your lips, a brush is an excellent way to fill in lip colour without disturbing the precise line of your lip pencil.


Excerpted from The Beauty Workbook: A Commonsense Approach to Skin Care, Makeup, Hair, and Nails by Cynthia Robins. Reprinted with permission from Chronicle Books, 2001. Distributor in Canada, Raincoast Books.



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