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Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Meltproof makeup for summer

A makeup artist to the stars reveals expert tips for applying stay-put makeup and looking your best on even the hottest summer day.

The sun is shining and you're happily soaking up some rays but your makeup is making a not-so-flattering descent on your face. If your mascara is running, your eye shadow is creasing and your lipstick is straying away from your lip line, you're looking like a hot mess rather than a cool summer beauty.

Korby Banner, the makeup artist whose talents you may have seen in action on the W Network's makeover series Style by Jury, shares some expert tips on how to make your summer makeup stay put. With some simple skin preparation, light makeup application and the right products, you can look fabulous all day long, no matter how high the mercury rises.
10 must-have summer makeup and beauty products
Here are some of Banner's recommendations for essential products for summer beauty:

1. Sunblock-infused moisturizer (can be tinted) -- to protect and hydrate your skin.
2. Mattifying face primer -- a makeup base that acts as a "cushion" between your skin and your makeup, keeps your makeup on longer and controls shine.
3. Concealer -- to hide dark circles under eyes and cover up blemishes.
4. Q-tips -- for makeup application, blending and clean-up.
5. Good-quality eye shadow -- to avoid creasing.
6. Eye liner
7. Waterproof mascara -- to avoid smudges.
8. Blotting tissues -- to absorb oil and keep your face from looking too shiny. Pat, don't smudge!
9. Lip liner and sealing topcoat -- to keep colour from traveling off your lip line.
10. Translucent powder -- to seal your makeup.

Troubleshooting summer makeup mishaps
We've seen the "raccoon eyes," when mascara wanders off lashes. You've seen excessively oily skin, unsightly lines of eye shadow that settle into the creases of your lids and lip colour that won't stay put. Here are some ways to conquer makeup meltdown and keep everything just where you want it.

H: My mascara easily smudges, leaving dark circles under my eyes. What can I do to prevent that?

Korby Banner: When you apply your eye cream, let it set for five minutes so that it absorbs into your skin. Then apply a good coat of waterproof mascara and, to be absolutely sure it stays on, put a little bit of translucent powder on a clean mascara wand and apply it over your mascara.

HM: My skin is excessively shiny. What can I do to prevent that?
KB: Use mattifying cream and blotting tissues. We use mattifying cream on models in the photo studio (Banner is a also a photographer) under the hot lights and their makeup stays on.

HM: What can I do to keep my eye shadow from creasing on my lids?
KB: Put a little bit of primer on your lids. You need just a micron of a dab. Apply it before the shadow and use good quality eye shadows. Try primers such as: Cover FX Skin Prep or Smashbox's Photo Finish. Apply it on lids and all over your face, under concealer.

HM: Lip gloss travels into -- and emphasizes -- the lines around my mouth. Do you have any tips for stay-put lip colour that's not drying?
KB: For moist and shiny lips that don't "move," take your liner and sketch an outline around your lips. Next, use the liner to feather in its colour onto your lips, then take a Q-tip and completely remove all of it and just leave a slight, residual tint of the colour. Then put on a topcoat sealer. The sealer looks like clear lip gloss and it "sets" the colour.

Korby's tip: If you want even more shine, take a little highlighter -- like a frosted highlighter that you'd normally use on your brow bone -- put it on your lip, before you put the gloss on, and then make the gloss look even more 3-D for that really pouty look.

When facing summer heat and humidity, you want to avoid makeup build-up. Keep your application light and aim for a dewy -- neither greasy nor chalky -- complexion. Use waterproof products to avoid smudges and to keep your makeup from fading, and keep those blotting tissues handy!

This summer, don't fear the sun's attack on your makeup. Armed with Banner's tips for meltproof makeup, you'll be ready to face the world with your mascara, lip colour and eye shadow intact.

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